Adweek published a provocative perspective from Wil Power Integrated Marketing CEO Wil Shelton, who spoke out about the unspoken contract between Black-owned businesses and Black consumers.
The Silent Agreement Between Black-Owned Businesses and the Communities That Built Them
There’s an unspoken contract that sometimes becomes a double-edged sword
By Wil Shelton
There is an unspoken, yet ever-present cultural contract between Black-owned businesses and the Black communities that built them. It’s an invisible agreement that is rarely talked about but always understood; a relationship rooted in shared struggle, history, and identity.
For Black businesses, especially in industries like beauty, this contract is both a gift and a weight. On one hand, it offers a deep connection to a loyal, invested community. On the other, it comes with expectations, sometimes unrealistic, that the business must never “sell out,” change, or stray from its origins.
Take the recent backlash against Mielle Organics, a brand that had long been celebrated for catering specifically to the needs of Black women’s hair. Mielle, known for its beloved Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil, was acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2023. Shortly after, a wave of outrage swept through Black social media. Consumers who had supported the brand from its humble beginnings felt betrayed.
Allegations of hair loss linked to the product have only fanned the flames, with many voicing concerns that the formulas would be altered, or worse, that Mielle’s commitment to its core Black customer base would disappear.
A history of loyalty
At the heart of this backlash is the cultural contract, the unspoken agreement that Black-owned businesses should remain loyal to the communities that built them. For many Black consumers, buying Black isn’t just about getting a product—it’s an act of resistance and resilience, a way to support Black excellence in a system that has often excluded or undermined it. These consumers have emotionally and financially invested in Black businesses, feeling a sense of pride every time they choose a Black-owned product over mainstream competitors.
This relationship between Black-owned businesses and their customers is rooted in shared history. Black entrepreneurs have long faced systemic barriers to success—whether through lack of access to capital, discriminatory business practices, or the simple fact that many mainstream businesses didn’t cater to the needs of Black consumers. As a result, the Black community has rallied around these businesses, supporting them not just out of necessity, but out of a sense of cultural pride.
But with that support comes an expectation to stay true to yourself and the people who helped build you.
The challenge of growth
The tension arises when Black businesses grow and seek to expand beyond their original base. For many Black consumers, expansion can feel like a betrayal, even when it’s simply a business decision.
When a beloved Black-owned brand is acquired by a major conglomerate, it can feel as though the brand has sold out and abandoned the community for the promise of bigger profits. The fear is that, once acquired, the brand will lose its authenticity, connection to the community, and cultural relevance.
This is why Mielle’s acquisition by Procter & Gamble sparked intense reactions. Many Black consumers were immediately wary, fearing that the product formulas would change or that the brand would lose its connection to Black women’s specific hair needs. These fears aren’t baseless—there is a long history of Black-owned brands being watered down or diluted after being absorbed by larger corporations. And in an industry like beauty, where trust is everything, even the slightest change can lead to feelings of betrayal, almost as if it’s an act of contempt for the very audience that helped the brand rise in the first place.
The sentiment on products for Black hair
In a fascinating twist of consumer allegiance, brands like Olaplex and Aussie, though not crafted specifically for Black hair, have garnered rave reviews from Black consumers.
These products were initially marketed to a broader, more general audience but have found a loyal following among Black women, who often struggle to find effective solutions within the confines of products labeled “for us, by us.” This dynamic raises a critical question that strikes at the heart of consumer behavior in the Black community: Is the effectiveness of a product ultimately more important than the cultural specificity that surrounds it?
For many Black women, the answer is revealing. While there is a deep desire to support products tailored to the unique needs of Black hair, the reality is that the products specifically marketed toward them aren’t always delivering the best results. As a result, many in the community have begun to look beyond the traditional boundaries of Black-owned brands for solutions that simply work.
It’s a profound reminder that the integrity of the product itself—its ability to perform and fulfill its promise—sometimes carries more weight than its cultural origins. In the end, what matters most is whether the product truly respects the texture, beauty, and uniqueness of Black hair, regardless of where it comes from.
Not all acquisitions end in disaster
While the fears surrounding corporate acquisitions of Black-owned brands are real, it’s important to recognize that not all acquisitions result in disaster. Some large corporations have demonstrated a commitment to maintaining the integrity of Black-owned brands and even enhancing them. Numerous companies have stuck to original formulas, ensuring quality remains consistent while using their larger resources to scale production, innovate, and improve distribution.
SheaMoisture, for example, was acquired by Unilever in 2017. Initially, many Black consumers feared the worst—that the brand’s commitment to Black hair care would be watered down. However, instead of altering the essence of the products, Unilever worked vigilantly to maintain the authenticity of the brand while expanding its reach. This acquisition allowed SheaMoisture to introduce new products, tap into wider markets, and remain true to its original mission of serving the Black community.
This example underscores that acquisitions don’t have to come at the expense of community trust or product quality. The key lies in transparency and communication. When a brand is acquired, new ownership must engage directly with the community to make clear that the brand’s core values will remain intact. Black consumers need assurance that the products they trust will continue to meet their needs, both in terms of quality and cultural relevance.
A double-edged sword
The cultural contract between Black-owned businesses and their communities can sometimes become a double-edged sword. On one hand, it ensures that these businesses stay connected to their roots and remain accountable to the people who helped build them. But on the other hand, it can also handcuff Black business owners, making it difficult for them to grow or evolve without backlash. The very loyalty that sustains the business can also be what limits it.
This dynamic places Black business owners in a tough spot. Do they stay small, true to their original base, and risk stagnation? Or do they seek growth, potentially alienating the community that brought them to prominence in the first place? The weight of this unspoken contract is heavy, and the fallout from violating it can be swift and unforgiving.
Rewriting the contract
The Mielle Organics controversy highlights the need for Black-owned businesses and their communities to redefine this cultural contract. Growth and success shouldn’t be seen as betrayals but as milestones in a larger journey. Black businesses should be able to scale up and reach broader markets without losing the trust of their core base.
The onus is on both sides. Black business owners need to remain transparent, ensuring that their growth doesn’t come at the expense of their community’s trust. This means communicating openly about changes, involving the community in decisions, and staying true to the brand’s original mission, even as they evolve. At the same time, Black consumers need to allow room for their businesses to grow, understanding that expansion doesn’t have to mean a loss of authenticity.
Ultimately, this unspoken cultural contract doesn’t have to be a barrier to growth. It can be a foundation, one that allows Black businesses to stay connected to their roots while reaching new heights. But it requires an honest dialogue, a willingness to redefine the terms, and an understanding that, as the great theologian Kendrick Lamar once said, “They not like us.”
Black businesses, and the communities that support them, operate by a different set of rules—rules that prioritize loyalty, trust, and cultural relevance above all. But if we can rewrite this contract, Black businesses can thrive without losing themselves in the process.
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