
From Modern
Retail at Digiday…
Target’s new beauty selection has almost no Black-owned brands
By Mitchell Parton
Target’s refreshed beauty assortment
aims to promote emerging brands, but it includes very few from Black
entrepreneurs.
Target Beauty Studio is set to
launch Sept. 10 in more than 600 Target stores and on the company’s website.
The new beauty selection replaces former Ulta Beauty shops within Target stores
and will feature more than 1,600 products from 90 brands, largely brands new to
Target.
Of the 90 brands listed as part
of the new beauty assortment, Modern Retail could only identify two with Black
owners or founders: hair-care brand Briogeo and Glamazon Beauty, a line of
cosmetics. Otherwise, the selection appears to mostly include brands owned or
founded by white or Asian entrepreneurs, with around a dozen Korean brands.
More than two-thirds of the brands are new to Target.
The Beauty Studio doesn’t
represent Target’s entire selection of beauty products, which may be found
elsewhere in the store or online. Still, the lack of representation in the more
curated assortment has raised questions from founders and outside consultants
about Target’s desire to sell and promote products from Black-owned businesses.
It remains unclear whether Target failed to recruit such brands to the program
or if brands refused to take part in the new beauty initiative.
A Target spokesperson told
Modern Retail that the collection was focused on beauty brands from around the
world, pointing to Korean, Japanese, Mexican and French brands. Nearly 40% of
the brands were founded by “diverse” founders, they said, but did not explain
how they define that word. They added that offerings of Black-owned and
-founded brands are comparable to its previous in-store experience, likely
referring to the Ulta shops. The selection still does include products in a
range of shades for different skin complexions.
“Getting back to growth starts
with investing in the categories and experiences where Target is uniquely
positioned to win, all through our distinctive combination of style, design and
value,” a Target spokesperson said in a statement, adding that new brands and
products will launch throughout the year.
The company also said it has
helped to introduce and grow Black-owned brands through opportunities such as
exclusive launches and programs designed to expand access to mass retail.
Modern Retail previously reported that Black entrepreneurs have
described Target as a frustrating wholesale partner and that Black-owned brands
once featured at Target have been removed from the retailer’s assortment
without explanation. Some have voluntarily stopped working with Target because
of the company’s handling of their brands’ inventory, lack of communication, or
decision to end diversity,
equity and inclusion initiatives last year.
Who still signed on
Former Goldman Sachs
vp Nancy Twine started one of the two black-founded brands in Target Beauty
Studio, Briogeo, in 2013. She was the youngest Black woman to launch a product
line at Sephora, according to the brand’s website. In 2022, Twine sold the brand to Wella for
nine figures, she told Forbes. Neither Briogeo nor Twine immediately responded
to requests for comment.
The other brand,
Glamazon Beauty, was founded and formulated by celebrity makeup artist Kim
Baker in 2017. Baker remains the founder, CEO, creative director and majority
owner, according to the company. Baker told Modern Retail in a statement that
Target has proactively offered access to resources, marketing support and
guidance to support the brand.
“Target has been a
dream retailer for me for many years, and from the beginning of our
partnership, I’ve felt seen, heard and supported,” she said. “We work with a
diverse team that has been thoughtful about how Glamazon shows up and how we
authentically serve women across shades and ethnicities.”
Baker also said her
partners at Target have been receptive to ideas on using her platform to create
visibility and opportunity for other entrepreneurs and minority-owned
businesses. She added that she was not involved in determining the Beauty
Studio assortment.
“I can only speak
from my own experience, and I’m incredibly grateful for the partnership we’ve
built with Target,” Baker said. “My focus now is on making the most of this
opportunity, serving our customers exceptionally well and using Glamazon’s
growing platform to help open doors wider for those coming behind us.”
Target revealed the
details of the Beauty Studio just days after it pulled a children’s Halloween costume from its
shelves Monday, following social media backlash and criticism that it was similar
to racist Jim Crow-era minstrel caricatures. The company apologized in a
statement: “The costume is offensive and should never have been part of our
assortment,” the company said. “It is no longer available for sale.”
“When you don’t have
diverse voices and, more importantly, diverse life experiences in a room,
people don’t see the problems that are around the corner,” said Christy
Pruitt-Haynes, a consultant and strategist with a background in human resources
and DEI. “When you have a room full of executives who all have the same blind
spots, that means you’re missing the potential problems that situations could
present.”
Target last year
concluded its three-year DEI goals, concluded its Racial Equity Action and
Change initiatives, stopped all externally diversity-focused surveys such as
the HRC’s Corporate Equality Index, and renamed its “supplier diversity” team
to “supplier engagement.” Still, the company said it fulfilled its 2021 commitment this year to invest
$2 billion in Black-owned businesses and that most of the new partners it
brought in remain partners today.
Critics of Target’s
DEI decision said it was an about-face from the company’s previous work to
uplift Black-owned brands. The company had previously made public statements on racial equity and
investing in scholarships, business consulting and sponsorships aimed to
support marginalized groups, especially following the murder of George Floyd in
Target’s hometown of Minneapolis.
In May, a Target
representative told Modern Retail that the company still had hundreds of
Black-owned brands on its shelves, double what it had in 2020, and that it has continued to partner with Black
designers, creators and founders.
Potential solutions
Meanwhile, other retailers in 2020 and
2021 signed on to the Fifteen
Percent Pledge, a nonprofit that calls on major retailers and
corporations to commit 15% of their annual purchasing power to Black-owned
businesses, as Black or mixed-race people make up about 15% of the U.S.
population. This includes
Ulta Beauty and Sephora, who have partnered with the organization on
accelerator programs or grants for underrepresented founders as recently as
this year.
“What we really want
to look at when we look at these things is the percentage and how that compares
to the percentage of the population at large,” said Lola Bakare, a CMO advisor,
inclusive-marketing strategist and author of “Responsible Marketing.” Two of 90
brands being from Black founders would make up about 2% of the Beauty Studio
assortment. “I think the average consumer might be glad there are two, but what
we also know is that they can do so much better.”
Bakare said Target
should consider the Fifteen Percent Pledge as a potential solution. “Let’s not
have another apology,” she added. “You want to replicate what Sephora and Ulta
are doing? Replicate them all the way and take the Fifteen Percent Pledge.”
Danyail Lawton,
founder and CEO of consultancy BoldMoves — which specializes in public
relations, reputation management and crisis management — and a former people
operations manager for the U.S. Air Force, said Target’s new CEO, Michael Fiddelke, should have
made a public announcement on DEI when he entered the role to avoid deterring
consumers or brands any further. She said Target executives need to address the
issue directly to move on from it.
Former Target CEO
Brian Cornell wrote about uncertainty over Target’s values in an email to staff
last year, but communications, marketing and leadership consultants said the message was vague and
failed to reassure people about any continued commitment to underrepresented
groups.
“The longer it goes
without being addressed, the more challenging it is going to be to gain that
momentum and credibility back,” Lawton said. “The longer it goes without being
addressed, the more people are going to speculate and the more people are going
to make their own narratives, and that’s what you want to avoid when you’re
dealing with the public in the communications role.”
Pruitt-Haynes
similarly said Target could win back brands by making a public statement about
wanting them in its store. “That implies a level of support and consent,” she
said. “They would start to see a return of their consumers, which would lead to
more sales.”